Shoot and export so text is easier to erase

Erase models work from the pixels you give them. A soft, crushed JPEG forces the model to guess through artefacts; a clean export lets it see where the ink stops. You do not need a studio — a few habits before upload help more than another brush stroke afterward.

In front of the camera

• Keep the lettering sharp — motion blur turns strokes into mud the model has to invent around.
• Prefer even light on the text; heavy glare on a glossy label hides edges.
• Fill the frame enough that the type is more than a handful of pixels tall.
• If you control the set, avoid stacking a second sign right against the one you plan to remove.

Contrast helps separation

Dark type on a mid tone, or light type on a darker plate, gives detection and erase a clearer boundary. Low-contrast grey-on-grey captions still work often enough — they are just the cases where a slightly wider box and a second look at 100% pay off.

Export without crushing the file

• Avoid “email small” JPEG presets that smear edges into blockies.
• If you must use JPEG, stay at a high quality setting; PNG or WEBP is kinder when you still have it.
• Do not run heavy sharpening or social-app recompression before erase — do that after, on the clean plate, if you need it.
• Stay inside the upload caps (25 MB, 8000 × 8000) rather than downscaling so hard the glyphs fall apart.

What will not save a bad plate

No eraser invents detail that compression already deleted. If the word is a three-pixel stain, re-export from the original or re-shoot. Specialised erase is fast; it is not a time machine.

Worth a trial upload

Take one packshot exported two ways — social compress vs full-quality — and run both through EraseText. Keep the export setting that still looks like your product when the type is gone.